all three NEVER!!!!!
This is American style. Middle always as many 3 button jackets press over the lapel to make it a 2 button. The proper way is the British way! Brits, especially Mods, Top button always, Top AND middle sometimes, middle only-never, bottom button-never. The middle only on 3 button jacket is ugly. It gapes at the chest, looks like a sack tied in the middle. For Sartorial elegance, like a bespoke suit hangs from the shoulder, Fastening the top button keeps it close to the chest and the front falls perfectly strait and flat.
Justin Clynes by Sonny Tong http://mensfashionworld.tumblr.com/post/69231992836
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A guide to Suits
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